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PVC Magnetic Dust Boot for Stingers

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  • PVC Magnetic Dust Boot for Stingers


    Hi Folks,

    This is a simple dust boot made from closed cell PVC for my Stinger 1 that has worked well. Since I've had a number of requests for the design file I figured I'd post here and add the file and some notes.
    I think this dust boot would also work for the Stinger II and III machines since it looks like they have the same spindle mounting bracket - but not sure.
    I have made some earlier versions of this boot from acrylic but this one was made with two pieces of 3/4" white PVC trim board from Home Depot. It's the S4S product - smooth 4 sides, not the wood textured although that could work if it's your only option. Veranda is one provider but it's commonly sold as Azek too.
    It cuts easy, takes glue well, and should be available. You can get it in sheets too but I just bought an 8' x 7.25" wide board. It's handy stuff and great for signs, clocks, etc.
    Like most building supplies, it used to be much cheaper but here is a link to the product at Home Depot.
    A forum member asked if HDPE (starboard) was an alternative but it's really not since it's almost impossible to use adhesives on the stuff.

    My machine has a spindle so I don't know if it would fit a router but you could easily modify it if required.
    A few other points I'll mention here:
    1. The VCarvePro file was built using V11. You will not be able to open it with V10 or earlier.
    2. Only 2 bits are required IIRC - 1/4" and 1/8" O-flute spiral up-cut bits
    3. This is a 2-sided project so you will need to drill 1/4" deep holes in the spoilboard for locator pins.
    4. I use a vacuum table so if you don't have a vacuum table you might need to adjust the size of the material for hold-downs, etc.
    5. This design uses 2 parts from the original black plastic dust shoe from CAMaster but note that you could buy all these parts if required:
      1. The plastic .766" x 5" rod that is clamped to adjust height of the dust boot
      2. The 2" black brush strip (it pulls out of the original dust boot)
    6. For the 4" black plastic dust hose connection you have a number of options. Note that in my initial post I mentioned this part came from the original CAMaster dust boot but that was incorrect.
    7. The magnets can be purchased from Amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081GDWR...t_details&th=1
    8. Make absolutely certain that when you glue each of the magnets in place they are oriented properly so they attract each other instead of repelling.
    9. Machine all the toolpaths on the top first.
    10. The first step in machining the bottom is to drill the 1/4" deep locator pin holes in your spoil board.
      Once that is done you can insert some 1/4" dowels or pins, flip the part, position it on the pins, and cut the rest of the part.
    11. See the last picture for how I connected my ground wire from the DC system to the top of the dust boot.

    The main differences in this dust boot from the standard ones that either come with the machines or that are made by Kent are:
    1. The vacuum area is smaller - it is not the entire length of the boot itself but only about 3.5" circular area directly under the spindle. I have found that this shape does a better job of catching chips and dust... at least on my setup. It also does not allow chips to escape the boot when that right side of it goes off the table.
      You could easily modify this design to make the vacuum area as large as you need it.
    2. The two parts of the dust boot fit together to create an internal air passage for the vacuum. My DC machine is a DustRight 650.
      That internal passage has a smaller cross-sectional area than the 4" hose but again, for my machine it works fine and I get plenty of vacuum. This is why you need two 3/4" thick parts for the top and bottom. As mentioned above, you could modify the design to provide a larger internal passage, etc.
    As I mentioned in another post about this, I might change the design slightly in the future so that the spindle is exactly centered on the dust boot opening when it's attached to the clamp. This design came from the CAMAster dust boot outline but I'm not sure why they designed it this way other than there is not much room behind the spindle.
    Other forum members also mentioned adding two pins to help secure the two halves but honestly it works well as is. Those pins would also make it hard to quickly and easily separate the halves.
    Anyway, it's been a while since I made this thing so hopefully it all makes sense but if there are questions let me know.

    20220312_154025.jpg


    20220312_153952.jpg

    Ground wire from inside the flex hose connected to the dust boot top.

    20220312_155327.jpg

    File attached.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by gtgmarine; 05-20-2022, 05:05 PM.
    Pete
    ----------
    2021 Stinger I SR-24, 1kW Spindle
    Performance Pkg w/Gantry Lift, FTC
    Phenolic Top, Storm Vac, JTech Laser
    VCarve Pro 11.0
    www.gotoguysmarine.com
  • #2

    Thanks for sharinng. I have both of the Kent shoes, but this is probably worth making at some point.
    Gary
    2018 Stinger II SR-44 with GCnC WinCNC Backplane, ClearPath Servos, 3HP RM30C ATC CNCDepot Spindle, 16 Tool Carousel, Custom Automatic Height Dustboot, Performance Premium, Recoil, Gantry Lift, Cyclone
    Fusion 360
    Aspire

    Comment

    • #3

      Thanks for the files, I like the looks of setup you made. It like that it is smaller footprint around the bits and easy to remove for use with FTC.
      Dan

      Comment

      • #4

        I just made a dust boot for a forum member and noticed that the number of passes I had setup for the pocketing operations were way over done. This PVC is soft so 8 passes is way overkill and takes too much time - 4 passes on the pocketing toolpaths is fine with a 1/4" upcut bit. You could also save time on the pocketing operations if you used a 1/2" end mill for those large areas in the air passages.

        Pete
        ----------
        2021 Stinger I SR-24, 1kW Spindle
        Performance Pkg w/Gantry Lift, FTC
        Phenolic Top, Storm Vac, JTech Laser
        VCarve Pro 11.0
        www.gotoguysmarine.com

        Comment

        • #5

          Thanks again to Gtgmarine, AKA Pete for sharing all this info. I used it to make one of my own, but I made some revisions. At first I intended to just use Pete's file and make adjustments to it, but soon came to the conclusion I should just use his for reference and start from scratch. Besides I need the practice with the software and machine.

          Here it is finished. I'll detail the changes.
          You do not have permission to view this gallery.
          This gallery has 2 photos.

          Comment

          • #6

            First, I wanted to realign the holes to properly fit my Stinger One with the 1.7kw spindle. That required careful measuring and different contours and dimensions. Then I wanted to beef up the mount post to top of the boot for additional strength.
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 1 photos.

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            • #7

              I only have a Rigid shop vac for dust control, but I wanted to "future proof" the boot, so I designed it for 4" and then made an internal adapter for 2-1/2" hose that can be removed. Honestly, this system works so well that I can't see going to 4" anytime soon, but you never know.
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 2 photos.
              Last edited by DaV8or; 05-27-2022, 07:07 PM.

              Comment

              • #8

                I realized that there will be different length of bits used and the boot will have to be raised up and down to accommodate. When really short bits are on, the boot has to raise way up into the body of the spindle, but when long bits are on, it drops down and only goes around lock nut on the spindle. Two very different sized holes where needed, so I made a removable adapter plate to keep the hole closed up and maximize suction with long bits.
                You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                This gallery has 3 photos.
                Last edited by DaV8or; 05-27-2022, 07:08 PM.

                Comment

                • #9

                  Once I finished the Boot and installed it, I quickly found out that it was difficult to take the lower part of the boot off while mounted because the magnets are so damn strong! The solution was to carve a slot in the upper so that I can stick a big screwdriver in there and twist. This makes it easy-peasy. This little notch I just did with a small hand router.

                  Anyhow, this is how I did it and thanks again to Pete!
                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                  This gallery has 2 photos.
                  Last edited by DaV8or; 05-27-2022, 07:09 PM.

                  Comment

                  • #10

                    Glad it helped but I feel bad since I have an improved version of the boot with much fewer passes, etc.
                    I also used some slightly weaker magnets but regardless I think just a good twist of top and bottom should slide them apart.
                    Regarding the spindle hole... you might need that top area open - it helps direct chips into the vacuum passage but maybe you DC system is different.

                    Thanks
                    Pete
                    ----------
                    2021 Stinger I SR-24, 1kW Spindle
                    Performance Pkg w/Gantry Lift, FTC
                    Phenolic Top, Storm Vac, JTech Laser
                    VCarve Pro 11.0
                    www.gotoguysmarine.com

                    Comment

                    • #11

                      Just have to say Thank-you for the files and I have put them to good use. It works great with my setup and could not be more pleased.
                      Dan
                      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                      This gallery has 1 photos.

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                      • #12

                        Nice job on the dust collection adapter..... Would you happen to have a DXF of this as I don't have a newer version of V-Carve.

                        Thanks,
                        Robert
                        Stinger I Router / WinCNC
                        SprutCAM, V-Carve,ZW3D
                        Tormach PC1100 / Mach3

                        Comment

                        • #13

                          Hi Robert, PM me with your email address and I'll send you an exported SVG or DXF file.
                          Pete
                          ----------
                          2021 Stinger I SR-24, 1kW Spindle
                          Performance Pkg w/Gantry Lift, FTC
                          Phenolic Top, Storm Vac, JTech Laser
                          VCarve Pro 11.0
                          www.gotoguysmarine.com

                          Comment

                          • #14

                            I made Pete's dust shoe plans and it turned out great.
                            I did have to change the diameter for the magnates and the 4" adapter. The ones I purchased were slightly larger than the ones Pete used.
                            Everything else worked very well.
                            Thank you Pete for the plans!!

                            I do have a question about the way the dust shoe fits on the spindle bracket on the original Camaster shoe and also on Pete's plan which wasn't changed.
                            I can't seem to get it tighten tight enough to not move around. Has anyone else figured out how to fix that?

                            Thanks,
                            Mark
                            Stinger 1 SR-24
                            Wincnc
                            Aspire 11.0

                            Comment

                            • #15

                              Mark,

                              I considered tapping the aluminum bracket at the base of spindle and bolting them together.

                              Comment

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