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Hi Folks,
This is a simple dust boot made from closed cell PVC for my Stinger 1 that has worked well. Since I've had a number of requests for the design file I figured I'd post here and add the file and some notes.
I think this dust boot would also work for the Stinger II and III machines since it looks like they have the same spindle mounting bracket - but not sure.
I have made some earlier versions of this boot from acrylic but this one was made with two pieces of 3/4" white PVC trim board from Home Depot. It's the S4S product - smooth 4 sides, not the wood textured although that could work if it's your only option. Veranda is one provider but it's commonly sold as Azek too.
It cuts easy, takes glue well, and should be available. You can get it in sheets too but I just bought an 8' x 7.25" wide board. It's handy stuff and great for signs, clocks, etc.
Like most building supplies, it used to be much cheaper but here is a link to the product at Home Depot.
A forum member asked if HDPE (starboard) was an alternative but it's really not since it's almost impossible to use adhesives on the stuff.
My machine has a spindle so I don't know if it would fit a router but you could easily modify it if required.
A few other points I'll mention here:
The main differences in this dust boot from the standard ones that either come with the machines or that are made by Kent are:
Other forum members also mentioned adding two pins to help secure the two halves but honestly it works well as is. Those pins would also make it hard to quickly and easily separate the halves.
Anyway, it's been a while since I made this thing so hopefully it all makes sense but if there are questions let me know.
20220312_154025.jpg
20220312_153952.jpg
Ground wire from inside the flex hose connected to the dust boot top.
20220312_155327.jpg
File attached.
This is a simple dust boot made from closed cell PVC for my Stinger 1 that has worked well. Since I've had a number of requests for the design file I figured I'd post here and add the file and some notes.
I think this dust boot would also work for the Stinger II and III machines since it looks like they have the same spindle mounting bracket - but not sure.
I have made some earlier versions of this boot from acrylic but this one was made with two pieces of 3/4" white PVC trim board from Home Depot. It's the S4S product - smooth 4 sides, not the wood textured although that could work if it's your only option. Veranda is one provider but it's commonly sold as Azek too.
It cuts easy, takes glue well, and should be available. You can get it in sheets too but I just bought an 8' x 7.25" wide board. It's handy stuff and great for signs, clocks, etc.
Like most building supplies, it used to be much cheaper but here is a link to the product at Home Depot.
A forum member asked if HDPE (starboard) was an alternative but it's really not since it's almost impossible to use adhesives on the stuff.
My machine has a spindle so I don't know if it would fit a router but you could easily modify it if required.
A few other points I'll mention here:
- The VCarvePro file was built using V11. You will not be able to open it with V10 or earlier.
- Only 2 bits are required IIRC - 1/4" and 1/8" O-flute spiral up-cut bits
- This is a 2-sided project so you will need to drill 1/4" deep holes in the spoilboard for locator pins.
- I use a vacuum table so if you don't have a vacuum table you might need to adjust the size of the material for hold-downs, etc.
- This design uses 2 parts from the original black plastic dust shoe from CAMaster but note that you could buy all these parts if required:
- The plastic .766" x 5" rod that is clamped to adjust height of the dust boot
- The 2" black brush strip (it pulls out of the original dust boot)
- For the 4" black plastic dust hose connection you have a number of options. Note that in my initial post I mentioned this part came from the original CAMaster dust boot but that was incorrect.
- I suggest this part from Amazon: 4" Dust hose to 4" drain pipe connection
The OD of the pipe is roughly 3.9" and it should fit into the machined dust port.
I epoxied the 3" long piece I cut off into the PVC with some 5 minute epoxy then trimmed off the part that extends into the vacuum chamber. I cannibalized this part IIRC - https://www.rockler.com/4-dia-dust-c...lice-connector
- I suggest this part from Amazon: 4" Dust hose to 4" drain pipe connection
- The magnets can be purchased from Amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081GDWR...t_details&th=1
- Make absolutely certain that when you glue each of the magnets in place they are oriented properly so they attract each other instead of repelling.
- Machine all the toolpaths on the top first.
- The first step in machining the bottom is to drill the 1/4" deep locator pin holes in your spoil board.
Once that is done you can insert some 1/4" dowels or pins, flip the part, position it on the pins, and cut the rest of the part. - See the last picture for how I connected my ground wire from the DC system to the top of the dust boot.
The main differences in this dust boot from the standard ones that either come with the machines or that are made by Kent are:
- The vacuum area is smaller - it is not the entire length of the boot itself but only about 3.5" circular area directly under the spindle. I have found that this shape does a better job of catching chips and dust... at least on my setup. It also does not allow chips to escape the boot when that right side of it goes off the table.
You could easily modify this design to make the vacuum area as large as you need it. - The two parts of the dust boot fit together to create an internal air passage for the vacuum. My DC machine is a DustRight 650.
That internal passage has a smaller cross-sectional area than the 4" hose but again, for my machine it works fine and I get plenty of vacuum. This is why you need two 3/4" thick parts for the top and bottom. As mentioned above, you could modify the design to provide a larger internal passage, etc.
Other forum members also mentioned adding two pins to help secure the two halves but honestly it works well as is. Those pins would also make it hard to quickly and easily separate the halves.
Anyway, it's been a while since I made this thing so hopefully it all makes sense but if there are questions let me know.
20220312_154025.jpg
20220312_153952.jpg
Ground wire from inside the flex hose connected to the dust boot top.
20220312_155327.jpg
File attached.
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