Holdin' It Down

[jtogg]

Great idea. If I run into issues with my inserts I'll definitely give this a shot. Maybe they can be reinserted straight into the same holes.

Did you make this graphic?

You could also use a block of wood as a guide jig. 5"l x 2-1/2"h x 1-1/2"th for the inserts
Cut a notch for the Insert to sit within hole top underneath.

Drill press a hole w/ a #70 (.28) drill bit (tight fit for the Allen bit - may need to spin it as it will keep straight)

Route .34" thru holes for the inserts. Also route the shoulder depth.

Place the jig over the hole/insert.
Slap a 6mm Allen wrench in the screw gun and go slow speed. Much faster than a rachet.

Works like a charm. Might also need to make a few jigs as it'll wear out.
Also helps when tapping.

1/2" inserts just as well, may need longer screws tho

[Guylaro]

I have a Stinger I and I find I'm more and more just starting to use screws to fasten my projects to the spoil board. I often find the T-Tracks aren't in the right spot to hold my piece down fully so I'm wondering has anyone ever just used the T-tracks to hold down a full size spoil board and then just use screws to fasten projects down to the spoil board? Or is 4 rows of T track not enough to hold down the SB so it stays perfectly flat? Or maybe there is something else I'm not seeing in using this method. Thanks. -Guy

[The real JP]

Honestly, it's whatever works for you. I have a 4x4 piece of mdf I throw on the front half of my table to screw/glue things to I screw that 4x4 mdf to the table at the corners.
I use it for carving projects where I don't want/need to listen to the vacuum scream for hrs.

[Jim Becker]

I have a Stinger I and I find I'm more and more just starting to use screws to fasten my projects to the spoil board. I often find the T-Tracks aren't in the right spot to hold my piece down fully so I'm wondering has anyone ever just used the T-tracks to hold down a full size spoil board and then just use screws to fasten projects down to the spoil board? Or is 4 rows of T track not enough to hold down the SB so it stays perfectly flat? Or maybe there is something else I'm not seeing in using this method. Thanks. -Guy

I agree with JP...whatever works. That said, I use screws quite a bit, to the extent that I've had to learn to leverage different areas of my machine top for the smaller projects as the front third looks like "micro Swiss cheese" from all of the screw holes!

[Logan Y]

Never fear modifying your hold down to match your project. I have a 4'x8' with 4 vac zones. Depending on the project I may screw the project down to the spoilboard, use 1 or more vac zones, or my newest option is holding down a 4'x4' spoilboard with vac that I inlaid T-tracks into and using the clamps on it.

At some point I'm sure I'll end up making project specific vacuum gaskets but I typically do one offs and haven't had the need. The only time I run into making multiples is those "free" Christmas presents I end up making for friends and family.

[Guylaro]

Thanks for the input everyone!

-Guy

[Karl Lee]

Best SB hold down system I've seen - plan to do the same with my Stinger II - thank you for posting!

[Texas CNC]

Good looking design. I had full intentions of designing a better hold-down system since my vacuum is way too loud to run in my garage but as time progressed and work kept hitting, I just gave up. Now, I do double spoil boards and clamp my work down with scrap wood from picture frames so they have a slot to hold stuff down and overlap. This allows me to run screws straight into the spoil board without hitting the phenolic base. For cutting boards and things I'm not fully cutting out, just engraving or cutting juice grooves, I just block them in with side boards without overlap. It never occurred to me until now to use nylon screws! I use metal and I've ruined one bit by having one in the wrong spot! That said, I can re-use the metal screws over and over if I'm careful to not strip the head. I will be using the nylon screws to hold down the spoil board now, great ideas!!

[4Rider]

Jtogg,
great post and graphs! Being over 3 years since you posted, how are spoil board sections holding down? Planning on using threaded inserts to bolt down 4 sections of spoil board on my Stinger III 49"x97". I do have phenolic tabletop with vacum hold as well.