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  #11  
Old 10-18-2019, 10:56 AM
Jim Becker Jim Becker is offline
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I predict you'll want to move the vacuum to the closet. :) If I put in vacuum, that's where my unit would go, along with the compressor and cyclone that's already in a sound-deadened closet in my shop.
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2019, 11:30 AM
Logan Y Logan Y is offline
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I predict the same thing but I can't bring myself to cut up the piping before I even turn it on for the first time. Thankfully the closet will be right next to the machine so I wont have very far to run if I do decide to do it.

That closet is 9x9 and rapidly running out of room. By the time I put in the dust collector, air compressor, and air dryer I'm almost out of space. I think I'd have enough room in one of the corners to jam it in there if needed.
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  #13  
Old 10-18-2019, 11:31 AM
jjwdawg jjwdawg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan Y View Post
Am I correct in cutting the grid pattern in the top of my bottom Trupan piece that will be carpet taped to my phenolic? What depth should I cut the groves at? My bottom piece is 3/4" so I can make the depth whatever I need to. After surfacing I would then add a drop of glue to the proud pieces in the grid to secure my spoilboard on top.
I've never heard of someone cutting a grid in their bleeder board, and I'm not sure what you'd gain by doing that. I have heard of folks using a v-bit to mark their used-up spoil board with the location of the center of each square in their phenolic grid. They then use that mark to tell them where to apply glue for the new layer of spoilboard, such that it doesn't impede air flow.

I've used different techniques, but I currently have my spoilboard glued to the phenolic with silicone. My hope is that it will be easy enough to scrape off when it's time for a new board.
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  #14  
Old 10-18-2019, 01:54 PM
Logan Y Logan Y is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwdawg View Post
I've never heard of someone cutting a grid in their bleeder board, and I'm not sure what you'd gain by doing that. I have heard of folks using a v-bit to mark their used-up spoil board with the location of the center of each square in their phenolic grid. They then use that mark to tell them where to apply glue for the new layer of spoilboard, such that it doesn't impede air flow.

I've used different techniques, but I currently have my spoilboard glued to the phenolic with silicone. My hope is that it will be easy enough to scrape off when it's time for a new board.
That was my idea on cutting the grid. I planned on using glue on the grid tops to secure the two pieces together.

Do you use silicone on just the outside or use it similar to wood glue and place it throughout the piece?
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  #15  
Old 10-18-2019, 04:57 PM
jjwdawg jjwdawg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan Y View Post
Do you use silicone on just the outside or use it similar to wood glue and place it throughout the piece?
I ran a bead around the outer edges and around each zone, plus a few dollops here and there - maybe every 2-4 grid squares. It has seemed to work well, but I've yet to replace it, so I may change my tune when that time comes :-)

At first, I placed tapped holes in the phenolic and used nylon screws to hold the spoilboard down. I had issues with screws backing out and/or the mdf compressing under the screw heads and becoming loose. Next, I tried carpet tape, but it eventually failed before the spoilboard was used up.
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