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  #11  
Old 01-12-2020, 10:09 AM
UglySign UglySign is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.MacMunn View Post
Thanks Ug ........ one of those might just do the trick. I'll have to give this some more thought. I think I can probably make up a bunch of boxes with irregular widths & park them side by each & do them in a V-carve. I don't care about straight sides on the letters, because you don't get them when sandblasting. anyway.
So ....... question ........ they have a 6" bit with a .25" shaft. Carbide, I know nothing about metal .... can I cut that bit off to say 4" or so? Can you cut carbide with a hack saw?
I've cut down a few engraving bits for a fast fix. Used the bench grinder lil at a time, they do get hot.

What about ACM panel bits? They have an .09" flat bottom tho
This set shows a few...

AMS-151 8-Pc V-Groove for Double Edge Folding



# RC45716 shows inserts... wonder if they have a radius avail?
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  #12  
Old 01-14-2020, 11:35 AM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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I'm going to try to stay away from a flat bottom. I think it would just look "wrong" . The ones pictured aren't steep enough anyway. The best ones I've seen so far are the ones posted earlier ..... one of which was 6" long, but had a rounded bottom. They were 60* bits, which should be fine, although I think a 45* might be a bit better.
First chance I get, I'm going to experiment .... I'd really like to get away from sandblasting altogether, although I still have CHVG cedar in stock that I'd like to use up.
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2020, 07:30 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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TR,

If 60 degree works for you I often use a round nose 60 degree V bit from MLCS...
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ttering_Anchor

Check out the 5418 and 7718 items.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2020, 08:25 AM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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I have a couple of bits ordered. I'm still having trouble with this , but I'm still playing with it.
The tutorial tells you that you can leave elements standing proud, but don't explain how.
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2020, 10:13 AM
guitarwes guitarwes is offline
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T.R.- Rout the entire panel with the woodgrain (will be alot faster) and setup an female inlay toolpath for pocket letters. Cut your letters out of a different material, paint, and stick them in the holes. A touch more work but you don't have to worry about programming the vbits/offsets running into the sides of your letters. Plus, the side (return) of the letter gets painted also and looks a bit better and fancier to me than just painted on the face.
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2020, 10:57 AM
guitarwes guitarwes is offline
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Here are some I recently made with the pocket inlay toolpath. I'm sure you're very familiar with it already. I don't have the patience to paint the individual faces of the letters, I make too big of a mess, that's one of the biggest reasons I do it like this. Plus, like I said, the edges of the letters are the same color as the faces.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg inlay sign 1.jpg (80.3 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg inlay sign 2.jpg (74.4 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg inlay sign 3.jpg (68.8 KB, 28 views)
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  #17  
Old 02-06-2020, 03:02 PM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Thanks Wes.
That's basically how I did the "Wild Blueberry" sign. I prefer the returns being the same colour as the background, rather than the same colour as the letters. The reason? ( there's always a reason) ..... if you are looking at the sign from an angle, there's a certain point at which the spaces between the letters disappears. IF your returns are the same colour as the letter-face, this effect, which renders the copy illegible, happens at 35* from perpendicular, rather than 60*.

Also, I like having the "woodgrain" creep up the sides of the letter, like they do on sandblasted cedar, but I'll have to live with whatever I can get.

I suspect I'll never be able to completely eliminate sandblasting. It happens very quickly, & you can get nice sharp corners, basically the width of one grain of sand. Many of my pictorials require this detail .
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