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Old 12-06-2018, 02:18 PM
TinKnocker TinKnocker is offline
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Default Guitar Project

So I'm going to attempt to make a telecaster. I got a nice 8/4 board of Ash that I'm going to glue up for my blank. Since telecasters are basically 2.5D as far as tool paths go, I am wondering if I can avoid purchasing a new bit by clearing out extra material around the profile? My longest cutting bit right now is just 1" of actual cutting length (SRD220). I don't have a planer so I will probably surface both sides with the CNC and get it down to 1.75 thick. Should I bite the bullet and get a nice long 3/8" bit with a 2" cutting depth or is this possible with my existing tooling?

I am also thinking about cutting some rectangular pockets along the blank and filling them with some darker woods like walnut or red oak. I know for inlays people tend to use V-cuts, I'm wondering if there is a lesson there that I haven't learned the hard way yet that I might avoid? I could put the darker woods into the glue up, but then I'll have edge grain mixed with face grain and I'm not sure if it would look strange.

I'm just going to order the neck. I'm pretty sure I'm going to learn enough lessons doing the body and the build that I don't need to challenge myself with doing a neck yet.
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2018, 02:41 PM
Ger21 Ger21 is offline
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Route the 1" deep, and cut away the excess with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Then use a flush trim bit in a router table or handheld router to clean up the rest from the backside.
If you don't have those tools, buy a longer bit.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:15 PM
guitarwes guitarwes is offline
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A 2" LOC 1/2" bit isn't all that much (if you plan to use it more than once) about $50, and it may work better at hogging out the pockets and such. My experience is that with cutting deeper than your bit's LOC is that it leave an slight indention in the wood where the flutes stop.
Don't know what you mean by mixing edge grain and face grain. If you do an inlay, whether Vcarved or pocketed, both will be face grain showing.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:16 PM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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I agree with Gerry that "in the moment" just use other tools to complete the final profile. But I also subscribe to adding to your tooling inventory and a .375 end mill with some length to it is a good cutter to have in your bag of tricks. Some guitar makers like to use a reduced shank version of this cutter for routing deep profiles for obvious reasons. Vortex makes a very good one, but it's also an expensive cutter...and you need enough Z-axis height to accommodate it, too.
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:01 PM
TinKnocker TinKnocker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarwes View Post
Don't know what you mean by mixing edge grain and face grain. If you do an inlay, whether Vcarved or pocketed, both will be face grain showing.
So yes, if I do an inlay it will be face grain on both, but I have a walnut and a red oak board that are .75 thick, and if I were to trim them to 2" wide and insert them into the glue up, they would have to sit sideways.

For the first question it looks like I should bite the bullet and buy the tool. Thanks!
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  #6  
Old 12-06-2018, 04:20 PM
Ger21 Ger21 is offline
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Quote:
Vortex makes a very good one, but it's also an expensive cutter.

Little tip when buying from Vortex. NEVER buy one bit.

With 1/2" bits, buying two will usually result in a 30% discount.
With 1/4" bits, I think you need to buy seven.
Just keep changing the quantity until the discount appears.
I guess it's somewhere around $200-$225. Anything over the threshold gets you 30% off.
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  #7  
Old 12-07-2018, 09:28 PM
Terry Williams Terry Williams is offline
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Good luck on your guitar project!

I will be attempting my first one soon (I hope - I have a couple of projects to get out of the way first).

My son (Mason Williams - masonwilliamsmusic.com) is a professional Jazz Guitarist playing in the Naples FL area and he has his eye on a Collings IC30 LC but they go for about $5,500!

I told him we would try to do one similar to the Collings as a "fun" project so I will be on a huge learning curve once I get started.

Post as much as you can on the process - there's already a lot of info in previous posts on the forum and a little more can't hurt.
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:35 AM
TinKnocker TinKnocker is offline
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Terry- Will do. I plan on trying to document it to the best of my ability. Since I have never done this before I have decided to go cheap on all the hardware, neck etc. The main purpose of this build is to make all the mistakes and get them out of the way. Once that is done I have some credit on reverb from a guitar I recently sold that is will use to attempt a hollow body.

I’m just a hobbyist, and my only woodworking machines are my CNC and a miter saw (I don’t even have a drill press yet). I wanted to take everyone’s advice and get the right router bit, but I have next week off from work and did not want to wait, so I bought a long flush trim bit and I will use my Stinger as a router table. I have done this before to put radii on edges. My boards are rough, so I’ll be using the CNC in place of a router/jointer/planet. Planning on using indexing pins on the CNC and then routing a line down the board and then using the flush trim bit to get my glue up edge.

Starting everything Monday. So far I’ve only ordered the bridge and the neck because I want to do a 1/16 deep test route of the body for fit check before I surface it all away, plane the blank down to 1.75 with the stinger and then do the real body cut. For plans I’m using a model I pulled from grabcad to make DXFs, which I verified against the Terry Downs print that Herb Holmes posted previously.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2018, 05:25 PM
The real JP The real JP is offline
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I would be paranoid enough to make a test body out of glued up 2x4's or mdf just to make sure everything fit and I didn't want to move some knobs.
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  #10  
Old Yesterday, 05:03 PM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Terry, I don't know anything about making guitars but I like jazz and your Son is very talented.
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